Monday, May 16, 2011

M.E Trip to Arco





After a day of delays, hire car faff and getting on the busy Italian autostarda without a ticket (naughty Andy) we all arrived at Arco Italy. Arco is situated just north of lake Garda and is a bit of a rock climbers dream with lots of easily accessible limestone ranging from short sport crags through to huge multi pitch multi day epics. The trip was at the invitation of our German colleagues from Invia to go climbing and eat tasty Italian ice cream.




So with the promise of excellent cafe doppio (double espresso) and polished rock in our minds we trotted over to Italy to find both true. .

Although many Brits deride Arco as being too polished, we found if your prepared to make a little more effort and with quality beta from our German colleagues (thanks Thomas) some really good climbing can be found.

The first two days we're a nice mix of Via ferrata and going climbing, the team were climbing well, some of us even embracing and succeeding on the polish.


On our day of departure we decided to keep things interesting by attempting one of the many soaring multipitches in the valley. This greatly worried Thomas (head of Invia) who had visions of us having an epic and missing the flights, but despite the slightly worrying look of the thread runners which most of the route had been equipped with, the 3 teams of two pulled over the top of the cliff with plenty of time to spare. So after a well earned coffee down by the lake we left for the airport tried but satisfied.

Enjoy the photos of the M.E team having fun.




Wednesday, May 11, 2011

More footage from Jeff Lowe's Metanoia, Eiger movie!


Josh Wharton & Daniel Mader climb sections of Jeff Lowe's unrepeated route, Metanoia on the Eiger North Face from Jeff Lowe on Vimeo.


Jeff Lowe's Pack Retrieved from Eiger North Face from Jeff Lowe on Vimeo.

Steck and Bowie summit Cho Oyu!

Two down....this one "in a mere 10.5 hrs push"

details here:

http://www.himalayaspeed.com/

http://donbowie.com/?p=1255



"Don and Ueli at 7000m on the descent from summit."





"All the way Ueli and I continued to remind ourselves that our main objective was not the summit of Cho Oyu – but to acclimatize for projects ahead. Never-the-less, we did summit, and by yesterday afternoon we were back in base camp, basking in the sun and drinking tea, smiling at our accomplishment."






Himalaya Speed PART 1: Khumbu Training from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.

Polartec NeoShell update


Sunset from the Midi










I started this review with three videos.  I think it is important enough to get a look at the technology that even the Polartec videos are worth a second look.

Don Bowie's comments mirror my own experience with the Westcomb Apoc and NeoShell..














It has taken me a while to get enough experience with the NeoShell to think I could write a worth while  review.  I was leery because I had hunted down this jacket and begged for it from Polartec.  Actually it was a tour through Wetscomb's gear at the OR show in Jan. that turned me on to NeoShell.   Gabriel Cote had nothing but good things ot say about NeoShell and was excited to be using it in his cutting edge garments.  I had used the original prototype Goretex garments back in 1976  from Sierra Designs and Lowe so I really did wonder just how much of a "missing link" the new NeoShell would be.  35 years of technology should be an improvement right?

I am pretty easy to please when it comes to shell garments these days.  I have almost totally given up on Goretex because in typical use I wanted something more breathable than hard shells offered.  Easy to please because I so seldom use a hard shell now..

When the wind is blowing and it is -20C and the sun is out a layer of down and a good wind shell pretty much does the trick.  The shell is not required to do much.  A lot of my skiing and climbing in the Alps were in those kind of  conditions, cold and windy. 

So I knew NeoShell was wind proof.  Most shell materials are to one level or another.  But how many stretch?  NoeShell does. One of the things I really look for on any review is how much I notice what I am trying to review.  Good boots?  If  I never notice the boot I am wearing they are likely GREAT boots!  Ice tools or other climbing gear?  If they do what is required and I never notice a lack of performance it is likely an exceptional bit of kit.  If they allow me to do some thing new...then I know I have a winner.

A hard shell that stretches!
Mind you NeoShell doesn't stretch a lot but it does enough so that the garment never binds while wearing it.
But I also noticed I never had a moisture build up.  Not when skiing/climbing and working hard.  Even in conditions I thought I might or would normally.  I also noticed NeoShell had to be the warmest single layer water proof shell I had ever used.  But just fleeting thoughts as I wasn't making side by side comparisons to any GTX products.  Just my observations at that moment.

I had to wait till I got home to the Cascades to check out the rest of the story.  Rain...inches of rain have been typical this spring.  So now I know the NeoShell is water proof and it still stretches.   It obvious breaths well but just how well was the question.  My Goretex stuff breathes too.  

The most impressive test for me sounds like the most simple.  Right at freezing all day between 4000' and 7000'  and not a cloud in the sky.    You could  almost wear a sweater to ski in but you would be chilled on the ski lift or on the ridge tops if you weren't working hard.  A sweater and a wind proof vest were almost ideal.

Same place typically a Gortex shell would have been too warm for me and worse yet sweaty and wet.

Just for fun I stripped to a tech short sleeved T shirt and added the Neo Shell over it.   I figured we would soon see just how warm, wind proof and breathable NeoShell really was.

To my surprise I stayed warmer ( remember I originally thought NeoShell was exceptionally warm)  all the way up and all the way down in the Apoca NeoShell than in my sweater and vest combo.  And even more impressive I stayed dry..actually drier than the sweater/vest combo with no noticeable moisture build up on my back during the long runs down the hill.

Obviously no great insights here.  But may be that is the point.  NeoShell offers a water proof hard shell that breathes extremely well, and stretches.  What is not to like?   The Apoc has become my only shell jacket.  It is that good.  When I do notice something while using the Apoc it I'll get back to you.   

I have not used all the current water proof and breathable materials available.  But I have used a few of them.  The new generation of stretchable, waterproof and breathable garments might well be the"missing link".   The Apoc with NeoShell is the most versatile outdoor garment I currently own or have used.  That surprised me.   

My priority now is to see how a pair of NeoShell pants work out. Pants generally need to stretch a good bit more than a jacket.  Maybe I won't notice it.






Friday, May 6, 2011

Dynafit's TLT 5 Boot?

Dynafit's Dy.N.A race boot--old 950g and below, the new Evo @ sub 700g / 24.7oz.!
The lightest alpine ice boot I use is a La Sportiva Trango Evo Extreme GTX @ 2#3oz (35oz) / 992g








photo courtesy of Jared @ http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com/





And yes, they are climbing in Dynafit boots...the upper pair in this picture is the Dy.N.A. and  the lightest commercial ski boot in the world.







I saw these boots at OR in Jan of 2011.  And choked on the $750 and $1000 retail.  Let alone the $1500 retail for the race boots.  But a couple of months in the alps and skiing a lot with a pair of the newest BD Primes (retail is $570.00) makes the obvious advantages of a boot you can climb and ski in exceptionally  attractive.  At that point two pair of  boots (adding up to the $1000/1500 range) seems less attractive.
I've never been a big fan of AT boots for technical climbing.  Too heavy and too bulky let alone the other major disadvantages like they generally sucked as real ski boots as well.

I am slow to the party but have been playing with the TLT 5 Mountain, in the both the TF-X and the surprising TF version and the TLT 5 Peformance.  A more detailed review coming asap.

Until then think....skiing and climbing in ONE pair of boots when it is beneficial.  

La Sportiva Spantik 3#.05oz / 1362g
La Sportiva Batura 1st gen. 2#7oz / 1106g
La Sportiva Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz / 1205g

Scarpa Phantom Guide new 2010 model 2#7.5oz / 1120g
Scarpa Phantom 6000 new 2010 model 2#10oz  / 1190g

TLT 5 Mountain TF 42.5oz./ 1200g (no tongue) 1290g with
TLT 5 Mountain TFX 48oz/1360g - 50.5/1440g

Black Diamond Prime 28.5 mono 62.5oz/1720 (Palau liner dropped 100g)


TLT 5 Performance TF  42.5oz./ 1200g (no tongue)  which is a stiffer boot than the Prime which  has a over lapping  tongue.  Or 1290g with the tongue.

No compromise ski boots (REALLY, as all three skis better than the Prime) and a decent (not perfect mind you but decent)  ice climbing boot at the same weight but warmer than a pair of Nepal Evos!  AT boots will "likely" never completely replace climbing boots but there is some amazing technology here that could be used to create a better climbing boot that also skis exceptionally well.

I have thought for a while now that a Spantik with a Dynafit binding system in them would be a godsend.  Now I am thinking with  a little tweaking on the TLT design and we might well have a better all around climbing boot. 

More details and how they ski and most importantly CLIMB coming asap.  I'd love to hear from anyone intentionally climbing technical ground  in the Dynafits and your experience, pros and cons.


    Photo courtesy of Colin Haley http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/





Photo courtesy of Andy Sherpa http://slcsherpa.blogspot.com/

  If these boots interest you...take a look around to see what the Internet pricing currently is.  You might well be surprised and most retailers will match pricing.

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Dynafit Speed Skins? Help!?

I'm a little desperate here.  I just bought a pair of Se7ev Summit Dynafit skis and figured getting the Dynafit skins would be easy.  Seems there are none to be had in the US through normal channels.  Anyone know where I can get a pair?  Do they ever go on sell in Chamonix?   I'm looking for a pair in 163cm.

Huge "THANK YOU!" to everyone that offered sources and advice on the skin search.  
With everyone's help I was able to find a pair of Speed Skins for my new boards this morning!  Seemingly the last pair still available in the US ;-)   Truely pure chance but both skis and skins came from REI

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Some of the best films of 2011!

The 2011 5 Point Film Festival 5pointfilm.org in Carbondale, Colorado just wrapped up a mind blowing weekend. Watch the video for the nominees and winners, which are:


Dbl click and turn up the volume!



2011 5 POINT FILM FESTIVAL AWARDS from Anson Fogel on Vimeo.